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chassis rot

Posted By fuelem7 Tuesday, May 24, 2011 12:29 PM
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fuelem7
 Posted Tuesday, May 24, 2011 12:29 PM
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removed my fifth wheel plate today and found top flanges of rails very thin and rotted thru in 2 spots.thinking about replacing both rails from behind sleeper to end.any advice?200" wb now would like 236"
John_Costley
 Posted Tuesday, May 24, 2011 10:05 PM
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If she has rotted bad enough to rot thru then you dont have much choice.Thats always been a problem area up here in New England, with the high salt use on the roads.Corrosion under the fifthwheel mounts has killed alot of aluminum framed trucks up here and sent them to the scrap yard.John
fuelem7
 Posted Wednesday, May 25, 2011 3:02 AM
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would like to keep it as a working hobby if needed.is replacing rails from sleeper back possible?and still useable.
Krooser
 Posted Wednesday, May 25, 2011 4:55 PM
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You can repair anything if you have enough time and money....

Find a used cut-off and a good hack saw.





Over 4 million miles since 1972... No wonder I''m tired!
John_Costley
 Posted Wednesday, May 25, 2011 9:20 PM
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74 w 925 (5/25/2011)
would like to keep it as a working hobby if needed.is replacing rails from sleeper back possible?and still useable.


Yup.Once you cut youre frame off you can either just buy a pair of blank rail pieces from someone like PG Adams  http://www.pgadams.com/  and weld them on and redrill for youre current setup (suspension, fifthwheel, ect.) or if you have ever wanted to change suspension and axles then you can look at it as an oppurtunity.Find a good cutoff with the suspension and rears you want and weld it up.A "cutoff" is the compleat frame, fully dressed, cut off behind the cab or sleeper from a wrecked or junked truck.Sometimes the junkyards cut them off ahead of time, but usually you can pick the truck you want cut and tell them where to cut it.

If youre a decent welder, own a heavy drill, and have a good level surface to work on, then you can do it youreself.Its been discussed here quite a few times and there are alot of pics on here too.

Heres something Frank Surber wrote up.If a frame is fixed right it can still work just as hard, or harder, than it did when it was new.John
 Methods_for_repairing_and_or_splicing_truck_frames.doc (37,116 views, 672.00 KB)
Wednesday, May 25, 2011 9:30 PM by John_Costley
fuelem7
 Posted Thursday, May 26, 2011 2:58 AM
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thanks.thats the motivation i needed to get started.13 ft of new rail with sleeve from pg adams about 1500.00 delivered + 1/2 day for welder,and alot of sweat.we gotta love these trucks!
David M. Holt
 Posted Thursday, May 26, 2011 4:25 PM
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Don't splice the frame if you haul heavy it will always crack 5/16 just to thin for the weld to have any strength.  My buddy did this on his '78 359 Pete he had more problems and labor in repairing it than if he just changed the rails. I bought a complete frame with AG100 under it for $1000. last Saturday. They are out there or Change each rail 1 at a time Kw Is a straight rail if you don't mind drilling but you will be happy you did it when you are done.
fuelem7
 Posted Friday, May 27, 2011 5:34 PM
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is rerailing done with truck assembled?
John_Costley
 Posted Friday, May 27, 2011 11:31 PM
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"Don't splice the frame if you haul heavy it will always crack 5/16 just to thin for the weld to have any strength."

David,

All he has to do is watch his heat on his weld and run a bolt in liner behind it if he is going to work the truck.Nobody would ever cut and weld a working frame without putting in a liner, thats just tempting fate.John
John_Costley
 Posted Friday, May 27, 2011 11:34 PM
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74 w 925 (5/27/2011)
is rerailing done with truck assembled?


Think about everything connected to the frame.Could it all be jackstanded while you pull and push to get the old rail out and put a new rail in ?.It could, but it would be alot easier to at least partially dissassemble the truck.John

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